Almond Cake, Fol. 6

Wilt du ain rechtt gutten Mandel dorttenn machen

Food Magazine

Philippine Welser’s cookbook includes several recipes for almond cake – suggesting that baked goods made from this precious nut already enjoyed great popularity in the sixteenth century. If you like the flavour of marzipan, you will love this cake.  

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FROM THE COOKBOOK OF PHILIPPINE WELSER

»Wilt du ain rechtt gutten Mandel dorttenn machen – So nim ain pfundt mandel auff ain disch reyb inn mit ainem rosenn waser ab das er gar klain wertt vnnd her aus jn ain schisel vnnd nim achtt neu gelettenn ayr das weys dar von vnnd klopfs das wird wie ain waser vnnd seychs vnnd nim gar ain achtalin rom vnnd klopfs dar ann an die ayr klar und ries ann denn mandel wol dar nach so dau fyl zucker dar ein das gar syes sey sunst yst er nit gutt vnnd wan er halb ab bachen ist so sprentzs jn mitt rosenn waser vnnd las jn fol ab bachenn mus gar gemach bachenn sein vnnd wenig glaud obenn sunst wirtt er braun«

TranSCript

(If you want to make a rather good almond cake – take a pound (500 g) of almonds, finely grind them on a table with rose water, and put them (the almonds) into a bowl; whisk the whites of eight fresh eggs until they are as liquid as water; strain it, mix an eighth of cream with the egg whites, then add the ground almonds; add sugar until it is sweet enough or it will not taste good; when the cake is half baked, sprinkle a little rose water on top and finish baking it; it needs to bake slowly, with only little embers from above (top heat) or it will get (too) brown.) 

Where almonds are originally from cannot be clearly determined.

The region of origin of the almond tree is presumably Asia. Almonds were already added to bread before baking in Ancient Egypt. Almonds were used in the kitchen, in medicine, and in cosmetics from antiquity until modern times. According to Greek mythology, the goddess Kybele is said to have grown the almond tree from a single drop of blood. As early as the first century CE, the Romans used sweet and bitter almonds as medicine and for skincare products. From the Roman Empire, almonds spread all the way to North Africa. Later they also reached south-western Europe and the German-speaking region, where Charlemagne was one of the greatest promoters of the oily nut.  

The almond also left its mark in Europe in terms of cultural history. Jesus Christ as the ruler of the world was depicted in a mandorla, an almond-shaped halo. The almond also serves as the symbol of the immaculate conception.     

The recipe of Philippine Welser combines this precious nut with another symbol for Mary: the rose. In recipes of the Renaissance influenced by Arabic cuisine, the use of rose water always also indicated a certain wealth at the time: several kilogrammes of fragrant rose petals were needed to produce one litre of rose water.   

FOR OUR ALMOND CAKE WE USED THE FOLLOWING (INGREDIENTS):
  • 500 g almonds
  • 8 egg whites
  • 1/8 l cream
  • 250 g sugar
  • 3 Tbsp. rose water for the dough
  • 3 Tbsp. rose water for sprinkling on top

Katharina Seidl

Katharina Seidl is a curator at Ambras Castle and Head of Art Education.